Welcome to the Yamaha world of motorcycling! As the owner of a XT500E/XT600E, you are benefiting from Yamaha’s vast experience in and newest technology for the design and the manufacture of high-quality products, which have earned Yamaha a reputation for dependability. Please take the time to read this manual thoroughly, so as to enjoy all your XT500E/XT600E’s advantages.
The owner’s manual does not only instruct you in how to operate, inspect and maintain your motorcycle, but also in how to safeguard yourself and others from trouble and injury. In addition, the many tips given in this manual will help to keep your motorcycle in the best possible condition. If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to contact your Yamaha dealer. The Yamaha team wishes you many safe and pleasant rides.
Yamaha Xt 550
So, remember to put safety first!
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean. Pilot jet clogged. Faulty accelerator pump. Float level too low. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted. Intake manifold leak. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. Multi carburetors not in sync For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the links below.
Good luck and have nice a day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need. Hi, Barry and the usual suspects are: 1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly. Fuel filter clogged. Fuel line pinched or kinked. Float needle and seat sticking.
Float level too low. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched. Idle adjusting screw set too low. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged. Slow fuel jet clogged. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'Free' downloads that you will need please Click on blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Jul 21, 2012.
ColdI engines require a richer mixture to operate smoothly.so they have an enricher (aka choke). If you are finding you need to keep the choke on longer.you may have a lean mixture than normal.nother Start by inspecting the carb and intake manifolds for any leaks (loose fittings.cracked hoses) that could be drawing in air, leaning the mixture. Another common issue with bikes that have sat over winter.is plugged idle jets.the fuel varnishes the tiny orifices in the carb. You could try a product like Seafoam in the fuel tank.run it abit to get the treated fuel in the carbs then let it sit overnight.allowing time for the chemical to work. Since the bike runs fine warm.this may clear things up for you.
Apr 05, 2011. You may very likely have an issue with your carbies.
The jets may be gumming up with sediment over time or secondary carby needle is worn or sticking. A carby cleaning execise may be a cure or a service at your bike dealer if your not mechanically minded. The carbies are a little more complicated than the normal single carby and have more jets and slides, as well as a delayed secondary carby linkage.
Try the site below for a free download of your bikes manual which will have some troubleshooting tips and some service for the carby's. Feb 05, 2010.
Hi, Dan and the usual suspects are: 1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging. Bent shift shaft. Shift fork bent or seized.
Gear seized on the shaft. Gear positioning lever binding. Shift return springs weak or broken. Shift return spring pin loose 8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
Shift mechanism arm is broken. Shift drum is broken. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $15 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 80 views 1 helpful votes.
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Hi, Anonymous you have a faulty neutral light socket or neutral light switch for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 35 views 0 helpful votes.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged.
Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean. Pilot jet clogged. Faulty accelerator pump. Float level too low. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted.
Intake manifold leak. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. Multi carburetors not in sync For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 30 views 0 helpful votes.
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check: Unplug the regulator plug from the stator Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification Generic Specs: 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm Stator Resistance Check: Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification Generic Specs: 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms Stator IB test or Ground Check: Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault. Identifying Wires: Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive. AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator. Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis. Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current. Switch multimeter to Diode Scale. Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire. Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire. The meter should read voltage typically around.5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads. The meter should read voltage typically around.5 volts. Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings: Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage Battery charge lead AC output 1? Battery charge lead AC output 2? Ground AC output 1 Voltage Ground AC output 2 Voltage AC output 1 Ground? AC output 2 Ground? For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 66 views 0 helpful votes. If the neutral light is not working then it's likely the neutral switch is faulty. But most bikes will start in gear provided you have the clutch pulled in and the sidestand up. It could be either the sidestand switch or the neutral switch, I'm guessing neutral switch since your light isn't working either.
It's usually located behind the sprocket cover on a white plastic plug but it depends what model you have. They usually don't break but it might be dirty and need cleaning. Most yamahas you can take them out easily, just be prepared in case oil spills as you remove it. 806 views 1 helpful votes. Hi and welcome to fixya, Hi and welcome to fixya. The intake manifold should be taken as the last option. Basing from your description of the problem, the most probable case is poor firing.
Not only does this study guide give you an overview of the content required to master Mathematics, it also: • provides worked examples to help you learn good problem-solving strategies • introduces features like “You need to know” boxes to describe other mathematics used in the current work • prepares you for the examination by providing three tests with exam-type questions for each topic. Study & Master Mathematics Study Guide for CAPS is a comprehensive guide that will give you all the support you need to prepare for your exams. Study & Master Mathematics Grade 10 Study Guide for CAPS has been developed as an aid to support you throughout the school year. Poems for gr 10.
You will need to do a full check on timing, fuel mixture and spark. Cutting out can be caused by poor fuel. In this case, there might be water on the carburetor reservoir.
Drain the carbs. Until the muddy or rusty residue becomes clear.
This procedure doesn't require you to open the carbs but if you want to be sure. You can do full carburetor cleaning meaning you clean the jets as well. The rattling noise can be caused by timing. The timing chain maybe loose or there's a failure of one of cylinders to fire.
Since you mentioned it runs fine again, im guessing there's a problem with the spark plug. Make sure you have good plugs. I recommend replacing them all at once to narrow down the problem. Even if the spark plug seem to be fine, the copper core could have been corroded. Cdfm module 3 study guide. I recommend replacing it if its more than a year old and have been extensively used. Make sure you have good fuel and air mixture. It usually is 2.5 to 3.5 turns out from a full close.
But if you haven't made changes to it yet, let it be. This will save your plugs from wearing out too soon. The leaky intake manifold can cause lose of power, and will definitely lean out the mixture. Physically check it to make sure there isn't any cracks or big holes that can let air in. I hope this info helps. Levibit 246 views 0 helpful votes.
Hi, Dan and the usual suspects are: 1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging. Bent shift shaft. Shift fork bent or seized. Gear seized on the shaft. Gear positioning lever binding. Shift return springs weak or broken.
Shift return spring pin loose 8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
Shift mechanism arm is broken. Shift drum is broken. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $15 Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 80 views 1 helpful votes. Hi, Anonymous you have a faulty neutral light socket or neutral light switch for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the links below.
Good luck and have a nice day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 35 views 0 helpful votes. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1. Idle circuit and transfer ports clogged. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean. Pilot jet clogged. Faulty accelerator pump.
Float level too low. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc. Float bowl vent or overflow tube clogged. Fuel flow to carburetor restricted. Intake manifold leak. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. Multi carburetors not in sync For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 30 views 0 helpful votes. Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight.
If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor.
If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage). AC Output Check: Unplug the regulator plug from the stator Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. Nissan patrol y61 manual 2015.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification Generic Specs: 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm Stator Resistance Check: Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification Generic Specs: 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms Stator IB test or Ground Check: Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires: Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive. AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis. Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground). Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current. Switch multimeter to Diode Scale. Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire. The meter should read voltage typically around.5 volts. Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around.5 volts. Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings: Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage Battery charge lead AC output 1? Battery charge lead AC output 2? Ground AC output 1 Voltage Ground AC output 2 Voltage AC output 1 Ground? AC output 2 Ground? For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at 66 views 0 helpful votes.
If the neutral light is not working then it's likely the neutral switch is faulty. But most bikes will start in gear provided you have the clutch pulled in and the sidestand up. It could be either the sidestand switch or the neutral switch, I'm guessing neutral switch since your light isn't working either.
It's usually located behind the sprocket cover on a white plastic plug but it depends what model you have. They usually don't break but it might be dirty and need cleaning. Most yamahas you can take them out easily, just be prepared in case oil spills as you remove it. 806 views 1 helpful votes.
Hi and welcome to fixya, Hi and welcome to fixya. The intake manifold should be taken as the last option. Basing from your description of the problem, the most probable case is poor firing.
You will need to do a full check on timing, fuel mixture and spark. Cutting out can be caused by poor fuel. In this case, there might be water on the carburetor reservoir. Drain the carbs. Until the muddy or rusty residue becomes clear.
1988 Yamaha Xt 600 Parts
This procedure doesn't require you to open the carbs but if you want to be sure. You can do full carburetor cleaning meaning you clean the jets as well. The rattling noise can be caused by timing. The timing chain maybe loose or there's a failure of one of cylinders to fire. Since you mentioned it runs fine again, im guessing there's a problem with the spark plug.
Make sure you have good plugs. I recommend replacing them all at once to narrow down the problem. Even if the spark plug seem to be fine, the copper core could have been corroded. I recommend replacing it if its more than a year old and have been extensively used. Make sure you have good fuel and air mixture.
It usually is 2.5 to 3.5 turns out from a full close. But if you haven't made changes to it yet, let it be.
This will save your plugs from wearing out too soon. The leaky intake manifold can cause lose of power, and will definitely lean out the mixture. Physically check it to make sure there isn't any cracks or big holes that can let air in. I hope this info helps.
Levibit 246 views 0 helpful votes.
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